South Rib

A fairly easy way to get to the summit of Guye while remaining somewhat technical. This climbs the obvious slightly treed south rib that faces the highway. The beginning is a pitch or two of fourth class (reasonably well protected), which soon gives way to dirt/tree/talus gullies on the upper rib separated by 3rd class rock steps (easily simulclimbed).

P1 (4th): Climb the wide rock face, decent quality rock with best pro in a corner/dihedral in the center. You'll pop out on a large slabby, dirty portion with very little gear so best to belay at the edge of the steeper section, or just begin simuling.

P2-4: Move to the right on the slab and climb a slightly steeper section with a few gear placements, then around to the right of a buttress and into a gully that sits above a larger gully. Beware rockfall. Finish at the top of the gully in a occasionally wet dihedral/chimney. Easily simuled, but exposure may lead to pitching out.

P5-7: Move up and right from the top of the mini chimney through trees to the center of the ridge. (From here walk up and around right to the easiest gully). Four or five 70-foot steps follow, involving sections of 3rd and 4th class rock intermixed with dirt gullies and trees. It gradually grows easier until you reach the south summit block. Would require short pitches if belaying due to rope drag, so best simuled. (Exposure is limited.)

A single rack should do it, mostly cams. Pro on Guye is generally intermittent and bad (rock quality/flakes) so bring lots of slings to extend. The best belay cracks are not easy to find but are .75 to 2s. Bigger cams will get used as well. Generally smaller cracks are filled with dirt, flaring, and chossy.