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Peak Mountain 3

Character Assassination

FA Gary Henning, 2009
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UPDATED 

Description

Relatively moderate but pumpy climbing leads to a sloping ledge at about 1/3. From there you pass the first crux of the route, surmounting the small roof by pulling on some small crimps in a crack that angles up and left.

After that the climbing remains fairly sustained and technical, working your way up on the right of the drill flute, using a variety of interesting sidepulls, liebacks, and compression. As you near the first anchors staying to the left is easier.

Climbing to the first anchors is 11d, quite fun, and relatively solid. Worth doing.

The full route continues up to a second set of anchors at 12a, though aside from accumulated fatigue it doesn't seem any harder than the bottom. It is generally dirty, the rock is a bit chossy, but the movement is good. You climb up past a perma-draw, pulling lightly on the scary looking jug, before cranking a couple tough moves over the bulge. From there some delicate slab climbing zigzags up before the final stretch where you climb directly up the drill flute which is neat. L-P-L if you go to the top.

Location

10' right of Toothless Tweaker (with the orange roof), Character Assassination climb a line just right of the drill flute.

Protection

14(?) bolts to first anchor, 22 to the top. Hooks at both anchors. L-P-L if you go to the top.