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Peak Mountain 3

Trip Infatuation

FA John Sullivan, 2021
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UPDATED 

Description

Start by scrambling up a dirty yet easy slab past one bolt to reach the ledge. This first bolt can be skipped or back-cleaned. From the ledge, you can reach the next bolt. Then, climb a bit higher on the ledge to clip the 3rd bolt, and back-clean the second bolt. I recommend using an extended draw on the 3rd bolt to reduce rope drag. This is where the climb really begins. From the ledge, launch into an overhung boulder problem past a couple more thoughtfully placed bolts. While this is likely the crux, the route isn't over once you pull onto the headwall. The next long section is absolutely wonderful vertical climbing on pinch blobs and slopers, with many engaging sequences throughout. The final brief section before the chains offers a touch of spice. There is a large loose-looking block right before the chains. It is fairly straightforward to avoid this entirely. This is one of the most fun 10's at the crag, enjoy!I recommend bringing 11 draws, one of them being an alpine. This works if you skip the first bolt, use a normal draw on the second, the alpine on the third, and then back-clean the second. Feel free to bring extras if you don't want to worry about skipping or back-cleaning, but then I'd highly recommend extending at least the first three to help with rope drag.

Location

The farthest left line on the main section of the Quarantine Wall (Heavy In Your Arms is farther left than the main Quarantine Wall), just left of Glad To See You Go.

Protection

13 bolts to sport loweroffs.