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Peak Mountain 3

Empire Crack

FA Brian and Abby Thompson, Cody Adams
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Empire Crack takes a splintering crack line up the face of the Sunset wall. The crack is very featured, but at times deceptive. The route is nearly on vertical and though the moves are never above 5.7 the length and consistency of the route will get your arms burning. Near the middle of the route is a really fun undercling diagonal that passes a bulge with a big jug at its terminus. There is a ledge just past the undercling at about 100' that is large enough to belay from if splitting into two pitches. From this ledge move up and to the left on an easy diehedral. As the crack joins a ledge move right around a bulge and onto the exposed face above. Move though the field of ‘chicken heads’ and up to the anchors. There are gear placements in the minefield of chicken heads on this exposed 20' section. Clip the anchors or build anchors on top (more comfortable) and take in the view from the highest point at the Prospector.

Two 60m ropes to rappel off the top.

Location

Left on the Sunset Wall. Start near the base of the large detached pillar. Work up through ledges to gain the crack.

Protection

trad, standard rack with nuts. ~15 placements. Hangers up top.