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Peak Mountain 3

Estro-Analysis

FA Rachael Lynn, Zach Orenczek
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Description

After reading the not-so-complimentary comments here about the Cowgirl's Dream/Main Line, we climbed this instead.

Start under the splitter. Slither up thin, hollow-sounding, but seemingly solid flakes to get to it. The crack climbs as good as it looks--if only it were longer! Note: the guidebook says it's a hand crack but it's fingers. At the overhang jog left, power up a steep left-facing flake to easier terrain and a succession of left-facing flakes. Belay wherever (we stopped at a small ledge at about 120'). From here, continue up more left-facing flakes to the big ledge (5.5, maybe 80').

Descent: scramble left along the ledge for maybe 200-300 feet or more. We rapped too soon, from a small tree only 70 feet left of the route and our single 70m rope did not reach so we had to do a second rap from a small flake. Best to keep scrambling left to, well, I'm not sure but presumably either a shorter rap or a scramble all the way down.

Location

The climb is maybe 70 feet left of the start of Cowgirls' Dream. It's the pleasing splitter crack that is visible from far away and starts 40 feet up and leads to an overhang.

Protection

Standard rack from Green Alien to #3 Camalot


Routes in Jack Squirrel Peak Area


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    Estro-Analysis
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