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Peak Mountain 3

Conan

FA Skip Guerin, 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Possibly the most consistently steep trad climb in Boulder. As steep as

Death and Transfiguration

, without the stem rests. As steep as

Comic Crack

, but not a one move wonder. Not as steep as the last pitch on

Vertigo

, but way longer. As much value as Arms Bazaar, but steeper yet. Very aesthetic, great rock quality.

Head up the gully past

Jolt Cola

, past

Vasodilator

. Crawl through the giant chockstone at the top of a gully to a ledge. An alternative approach is to climb

Decade Dance

or

Aging Time

, walk right on the top out ledge to its end, then rappel to beginning of Conan. The alternative makes for a nice Trad outing.

Conan starts thin fingers, jogs right and shoots straight up to a two bolt anchor. The gear is excellent. To get down, scramble onto the brushy slab to the South of the belay ledge and rap from a tree back into the gully.

Protection

Stoppers; Aliens to hand sized cams


Routes in Upper East Face