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Peak Mountain 3

Alimony

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Description

This is an old school, wide route.

2021 edit: did I undersell the quality of this route? I just repeated it again after 10+ years, and it's a rad, albeit short, line! This is  a great link- up and low commitment/inclement weather option that gets full shade!

P1. Climb various OW sizes up the left side of a giant pillar. Belay on top of pillar, 5.9, 120 feet.

P2. Head straight up wide splitter to roof, 5.10+, 60'.

P2 variation. Trend right up dicey rock to 5.9 bulge. Pull over steepness, and climb straight up face, moving back left at small ledge. Belay wedged behind big flakes.

P3. Chimney to the top, 5.7+, 100'.

P3 variation. Start in the chimney, but move out left to a 5.9 OW.

This is a good route, but if you are only doing one route on the Alimony Wall,

Last Payment

is much better. This wall is conducive to link-ups.

Location

Park at Painted Wall Overlook. Scout the route from the overlook. Walk 400 yards down road and cut into a narrow gully. You're in the right place if you walk under a giant chockstone. The first pitch is a long, varied OW that is obvious.

Protection

Standard rack. Singles in #4, 5, 6 cams is more than enough.