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Peak Mountain 3

Geezer Pleaser

FA Vitaliy Musiyenko and Michelle Waller 1/24/2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Begins from a flat pedestal to climber's left of a left facing corner and a big tree.

Original route with good rock, traddaddy's dream.

P1) Start face climbing past four bolts, which will keep you off the ground before you start fiddling in small widgets into a faint seam, which opens up often enough that climb feels heads up, yet totally sane. Tiny to medium offset nuts and a few small cams (offset purple/blue metolius is nice to have for the crux), black and blue totems or blue and purple metolius cams are helpful. Bring a nut tool to clean up placements, as they can get filled with dirt during the winter.

P2) Clip a bolt and enjoy nice crimps towards the roof. You can try and fiddle a small cam below the roof, or stand up and clip a bolt directly above the lip. Pull over and climb a ways to clip the 3rd bolt, after which the difficulties drop down and you run it out to the anchor.

Location

Begins from a flat pedestal to climber's left of a left facing corner and a big tree. Easiest way to get there is rap the route from the top (2 raps with 2 50 or 60M ropes).

Protection

Bolts, tiny cams and tiny to medium nuts. Nut tool to clean gear placements in case no one has climbed it in a while. If trying to onsight, bring 2 sets of nuts up to blue DMM offset or equivalent. Purple blue metolius cam or two (I think it can fit in a few places), couple of cams similar in size to blue and black totem.


Routes in Down Under Dome


  1. 2
    Geezer Pleaser
    5.10d
    Tr · Trad