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Peak Mountain 3

Wham Bam Thank You Jam

FA Matt Schutz, Sean Neville, 9/2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Stout old-school feeling climbing with a great variety of moves. The 5.9+(+++) second pitch involves a strenuous roof over a potentially nasty ledge fall. Be prepared for physical and devious climbing (hint: offwidth technique will help!).

P1 - Hard 10a - 25m - Very strenuous left-facing corner. Climb it up to the roof using jams, stemming and lie-backing. From the roof, move up/right to a thin crack (may be overgrown/full of dirt) and continue up a left-slanting crack to a belay.

P2 - 5.9+ - Note the plus! Head up the thin pocketed finger crack on sustained climbing. The first roof is past easily with good gear and jugs. The second roof features an inobvious sequence beginning with a stem out left and a high jug entering in to the off-width crack at its top. Be careful, as falling from here would likely land one on the ledge below. Continue along the easy off-width and belay where convenient.

P3 - 5.8 - 50m - Easy face to the summit.

descent

Double rope rap from Drink Till You Stink or head back and climber's right to descend the gully between Red Eagle and Gray Eagle.

Location

On the right side of Red Eagle, starting up the obvious lie-back corner to the right of the red dihedral (huge obvious left facing dihedral).

Protection

Large rack to single 4"


Routes in Red Eagle


  1. 2
    Wham Bam Thank You Jam
    5.10a
    Trad