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Peak Mountain 3

Bombs Away

FA Forrest Gardner, Peter Henley - 1985 FFA: Mark Cartwright, Todd Wells - 1999
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Who would have thought you could do an alpine climb in Tennessee!

P1: Scramble up on a small ledge, climb a right-facing flake, then step right and climb to an alcove beneath a bulge. Squirm throught a slot in the bulge, angle right to a vegetated ledge. Walk approximately 30 feet to the left on a very narrow ledge to a solid root on a cedar tree and belay (5.8) 140'. P2: Move left from the belay and climb loose and crumbly rock for two or three moves, then move right below a huge right-arching corner on good rock. Angle right, pull an awkward overhang and belay on a solid tree (5.8+) 100'. P3: Head up towards the large roof for a couple of moves then gingerly move left onto the face of the buttress on various sized blocks. Be careful as some of the blocks are loose. Climb left of the roof to a live tree on the top of the buttress (5.8-) 70'.

Location

Located on the Flying Squirrel Buttress. Start: 50 feet to the right of the orange rock on Flying Fortress (5.10a). There are now bolts on the top of pitch one with rap rings that can be reached with a double rope rappel. A total of two raps are needed from the top with a single rope. This route can be fully rappelled with 2 60m half ropes. Killer hanging rappel from the rooftop.The Flying Squirrel Buttress can be seen about 1.1 miles up the canyon road at a large pullout on the right (35.139225669571665, -85.38611841466607). Scramble down the hillside, cross suck creek, and make your way up a small stream that connects with suck creek to the buttress where you'll meet a waterfall. Walk about 200 feet to the right until you find the start of the route.

Protection

Standard rack with some smaller sized cams. Nothing larger than a #3 BD cam.