Jugarete

Not to take away from Seth Derr's description of the Jugarete Traverse, I would like to add more to it. This problem has it all: history, a striking feature, adequate holds, height, continuity of movement and a bit of spice!

The Jugarete can be climbed two ways. The right (direct) way is to hop up to the wide horizontal rail on the hanging arete and slap up to two small finger bumps at the lip of the beach ball slab above while squeezing the arete with your feet or using a tiny chip to keep the feet from swinging off. Claw your way blindly up to a crimp edge or two mid way up the bulge. Get your feet underneath you on the starting rail and mantel with your heart in your throat. This way is V5 or perhaps a tad harder, but probably not V6. This is a standard sandbag at the Stables. It would be prudent to get on top of the boulder and locate and chalk the holds prior to launching off, and the holds are hard to see.

The left version of Jugarete is to hop up to the rail, get the bumps at the lip of the slab, and then start working the hands left along the rising sloping lip rather than topping out directly above. After slapping away left, you will end up with the left hand on a sloper and the right on a faint edge on the sloping lip. There is a foothold far below on the face that may be used if you are lengthy. Get the right foot up as a toe perch or heel hook and mantel, again in terror. The intended problem is to not traverse all the way left into the huge horizontal jug that is at the top of the Juggernaut dihedral crack, though in theory this is possible. This variation is about V6, but probably not V7. Both ways of doing this problem are high quality and climb quite well.

The Jugarete traverse sit starts with hands on a huge plate on the overhanging wall eight feet to the right of the arete. This is the start to Huck (V4). Make long moves, traversing left to a wide rail, and then again left to gain the starting rail of the Jugarete. You could top out on the right Jugarete problem for the traverse, but the intended path is to top out on the Jugarete left variation. The full traverse is about V7, probably not V8 and is one of the longest overhanging problems I have seen at any diabase area. It might be neat to traverse all the way into the finish of the Juggernaut crack and top out on that problem, adding a few feet but perhaps subtracting some difficulty, as you would avoid the crux mantel of Jugarete left. My above description sounds contrived, but there are almost no extraneous holds and all of the variations are relatively easy to decipher.

I have always thought that a sick lower standing start could be done on the hanging arete. It would be necessary to pinch the arete at a nice, acute depression and undercling the right hand underneath the roof of the boulder far below. You would be very stretched out with the hands, and there are virtually no footholds, save for one measly wart. I suspect this obvious start to this classic, tall and proud line would be no easier than V11 and perhaps even V12.

Jugarete is the tall hanging arete on the Juggernaut Boulder. Huck (V4) and its variations are to the right on a overhanging face with large plates that leads to a similar beach ball slab topout. The striking Juggernaut (V5) problem dihedral crack is to the left of the Jugarete.

Two or three pads or more and a spotter you have faith in. Even better would be two spotters. The ground slopes away downhill and once you are on the rock, the ground seems far away, but it is not that high. The right (direct) top out is a bit headier than the left variation, as the earth beneath the left finish is not as down sloping.