Mad Knowledge of Self

Face along a crystally ramp until beneath the ominous looking hanging flake. Amazingly it is only about 5.7 to lieback onto this thing. Proceed up the corner to the roof. Go left around to a Half Dollar flake, then traverse more left and slightely up to a thin right facing flake. You can place a TCU in the Half Dollar, but runner it good and be sure the rope doesn't run around the bottom of the flake when you get higher, or it will jam. Go straight up past bolts (10b) to the anchor. The second pitch goes straight up 10c dime edging to a low angle area. Go straight up to the right hand chimney and climb this (5.4) to a ledge with a Fixx anchor set.

On the right side of the alcove, bolts lead out left on a little ramp on crystally granite, below an ominous looking hanging flake. Rappel route (2-30m rappels from the rim) from Fixx anchor sets.

Bolts, #1 Metolius TCU, camlots 0.4 to 2.0.