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Peak Mountain 3

Organasm (Free)

FA Ron Olevsky and Mike Strassman, 8/83. FFA Peter Croft and Doug Heinrich 2000.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Zion's version of Separate Reality and Tales of Power.

P1: Climb an easy hand crack to an offwidth flare passing two anchors. Steep 3s in a hanging corner then lead to a two body length hand crack roof. Pull the roof and continue with hands for another 20 feet to an anchor. Careful back cleaning and runnering keeps the drag reasonable. Using gear in a secondary crack at the lip keeps the rope from diving deep. 5.11+ ~35m

P2: Tight hands through a smaller roof to a thin crack on a varnished face. Great finger and hand pods with some face climbing between. 5.12b ~35m

(P3): A short 5.7 could take you to a walk off, but most would likely rap from above P2

Descent: The top of P2 is about 68m off the ground. Two 70m ropes does it in one, though a single 70m may get you down with some swinging. P2 is steep and leaning.

Location

North face of the Organ. Cross the river from Big Bend shuttle stop or the pullout under Touchstone.

Protection

Doubles 0.1 to 3. Many extra hands for P1, extra fingers for P2.


Routes in The Organ