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Peak Mountain 3

Sorry Angel

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Description

This hidden gem is the test piece route for Minor Wall with a subtle crux sequence that may take several attempts to figure out (get creative). Prior to figuring out the crux, I would have rated this route at one star or less, but after unlocking the right beta it became one of my favorites at Minor Wall. Like most of Minor Wall, there are very few climbs at Socorro as unique as this one.

Location

Sorry Angel and Hangover Crack are towards the far climber's left end of Minor Wall, just around the corner from the big jog in the cliff line and the giant boulder. Look for the thin seam with a two foot nugget wedged in the bottom. This is Sorry Angel.

Protection

One can place a small stopper or a #1 (blue) Metolius Master Cam in the crack on the left side of the nugget. There is also a good spot for a #3 (orange) Master Cam just above the top of the nugget. Above that there is a bolt which protects the crux. After the crux there is a rusty piton, half dislodged and bent, but still seemingly solid. The piton can be backed up with a #4 (red) Master Cam just above or a stopper behind the large flake at the top. Be careful on the last holds below the flake at the top, some of that rock is pretty loose and would come off in big chunks,

There are two old SMC hangers on star drive "bolts" just over the lip and right of the crack. From this ledge one can easily scramble out via a short gully or climb the next face to a two bolt anchor and clean the route from there (see the beta photo on Hangover Crack).

I plan to go back and replace the fixed hardware in the near future so I'll update this info when I do.