BD Left Inside

Lots of moves on positive holds. So far it shares the same start and lower half, but then finishes closer to the center top V-slot of the Big Dihedral.

Not sure about the difficulty rating, since FA climber was cleaning and marking bolt placements along the way.

Start on the base platform of the Big Dihedral, on right side of chimney in left side of the giant inside corner / open book.

. . . Start (Top-Rope only) independent of route "One Pine": Climb the lower part of the route "Thinking of Patricia" (including a 5.11a move). Next move horizontal left high across right-trending overlap. Then over short inverted layback sequence to rejoin the main route.

. . . (? There might be a line in the 5.10 range that starts in the corner for a few feet up the "Thinking of Patricia" crack, then goes more straight up near the main corner to reach the inverted layback sequence ?)

Follow crack or cracks (as for lower part of route "One Pine"). Where bolt line forks, trend Right up gentler for a bit to reach left-facing corner below big chockstone.

. . . Variation

: From a bit above where bolt line forks, could also walk right across ledge to reach the two-bolt anchor at the top of the routes SouthEast Crack and BD Right Crack, and finish to the top of Big Dihedral using the route "BD Right Up & In".

Up that left-facing corner (crux) and pass chockstone on its right side. Trend left up to reach two-bolt anchor at top edge of cliff. Can stop here and rappel or lower-off. Or continue higher up vague ridge to belay anchor (one bolt and one cord loop) at the level of the gentle ledge at the top of the Big Dihedral.

. . Variation: Could finish to the platform at top of Big Dihedral by climbing above the anchor, trending right aiming for left edge of inverted V-slot at top of BD, and finish by pulling over a bulge (perhaps protected by placing a long sling around bush with multiple small trunks just left of bulge)

descent

: Can rappel off the lower two-bolt anchor (but need to add your own equipment as of 2018), or there is a rappel station 15-20 ft right from the higher belay anchor. The higher anchor is not designed for rappel (might get rope stuck).

For more details,

see the Area page for this sector 9 Chouinard

.

top-roping

: For ideas about how to set up Top-Rope,

see the Area page for this sector 9 Chouinard

.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

On the base platform of the Big Dihedral, on right side of chimney in left side of the giant inside corner / open book.

As of 2018 the start and first part is shared with the route "One Pine".

Reach this platform by walking left along base of sector 8 Dostie, then up and left around corner on rough trail. Trail goes out right away from rock face then up + left toward it. See the Big Dihedral above left. Soon leave approach trail and scramble up left to wide platform.

See on this Photo

9? (not sure of exact number) intermediate bolts for Leading from base platform up to lower anchor.

2 more bolts (including one of lower anchor) to reach higher belay anchor.

. . . (bolts and hangers are 304 Stainless steel 3/8 inch, installed 2018).

. . (Two bolts in the upper part are very close together. That's because it's a strenuous sequence close above a flat ledge. The lower bolt helps protect, but requires a more difficult clipping stance. Some leaders might prefer to "climb through" that bolt, instead clip the next one.)

Lower belay anchor has two bolts.

Higher belay anchor has one bolt and one cord loop. Higher anchor is not designed for rappeling or lower-off or top-roping.

. . . (for more details about these anchors, see on the description page for the route "One Pine").

Top-Roping

: Shares the same two-bolt anchor with the route "One Pine".

For ideas on how to reach the top and set up anchors for Top-Roping,

see the area page for this sector Chouinard

.