- Edit (TBD)
Description
Road side (west face) of Air Spire, this 2 pitch summit line begins on a low angle ramp in a left facing dihedral (easy 5th class).
1st pitch (~40ft): Ample protection in the piney crack system brings you past a pine tree on the left and up to a ledge on the right with a slingable boulder. This is the belay stance. Could probably also be done with several crack variations right of the ramp for a more difficult direct start on the 1st pitch.
2nd pitch (~45-50ft): From belay boulder move right onto the ledge and begin in a finger sized crack in the middle of the face. Surmount this bulge and gain clean but licheny 5.6 climbing on solid rock to the top out. Climb the face for the best movement, placing gear in the left crack. Top out and set belay off another slingable boulder. Rap off of chains for Phallus in Wonderland.
This climb seems to be one of the easiest ways to gain the top of Air Spire. (I'll add pics next time I'm at the bluff!)
Location
directly uphill from Mr. Canoehead, on the roadside of Air Spire. Start in the obvious ramp dihedral or climb direct up the vertical crack system for more difficulty.
Protection
Trad gear- standard rack with perhaps a few larger pieces for the P1 ramp if you want to sew it up.