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Peak Mountain 3

Two Edged Sword

FA Cal Swoager, Mike Artz, 1985
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route has a tricky start, as the feet are pretty minimal and you may need to jump to reach the first hold. Follow the thin crack to reach the first overhang. Finger lock in the only slot in the roof and stem to reach the protruding corner to gain a stance up and left. Climb up and cross the corner to reach the next overhang with a finger crack in it. Pull this overhang and follow a dirty face to the finish. This route is very sustained for 5.10d. The moves are very unique with good gear.

Location

As you follow the trail toward the South Bridge Area from the Main Bridge area, this is one of the first routes you encounter as you reach the cliff. Locate a small spring that runs out of the rock and over the trail. Start the climb above the drainage from the spring.

Protection

Stoppers and small cams, 1" or less. Shuts. A few Tri Cams may also be nice. Bolted anchor.