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Peak Mountain 3

Iron Horse

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Description

Starts on the same wide column as “Huggy Bears”.  Clip the 4th bolt and move left towards the next bolt, onto the overhung face using a deep undercling. From here the bolts disappear as do the feet. Fight to a good but sloping rail and smear some undercut feet to lock off and reach for the higher slot. Creative feet and technical strength might get you to the top of the cliff. This route was originally graded 5.11b and trad, as a variation of the finish to the 5.10a trad route “Ironman”. With the addition of bolts to the column between the two, this finish can either be climbed as a bolted variation to “Ironman” (trad), or “Huggy Bears” (sport).  Since the original grade was given, the upper portion of the face seems to have exfoliated a layer, taking a few of the holds with it and possibly rendering a harder grade.

Location

Listed as route 5.) on the wall photo.

Protection

6 quickdraws.