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Peak Mountain 3

Dickey's Notch

FA Michael Zarnowski & Nick Benedix
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts with a tough to sequence boulder problem then continues up a thin crack with kind of hard to find protection. It might be a good idea to swing over on top rope and check it out before giving it a go on lead. It is a fantastic lead when your ready though! A tough start leads to a nice horizontal hold and small nut placement. A few more moves and a green C4 can be jammed in the crack to your left. The climbing again gains steam (small cam placemats possible) leading to an exciting mantle below a corner. From here you'll have a nice perch to ponder the puzzle above.(The left side has better holds). The gear here is pretty small and you'll probably need a nut tool to clean out some placements. Above this move around a tree clip a nice bolt and pass one more difficult section of climbing to the top. Lower off bolts

Location

Five feet right of Stone Frogs.

Protection

All and all stitched up this route is well protected just be aware the gear is small and not always convenient. Cams to a .75 and nuts down to #3. doubles in finger sizes are good.