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Peak Mountain 3

Tall Trad

FA Scott Jones
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb starts on the arete 10 ft to the right of Blood, Sweat and Steers and left of Try Trad. Top out on the 35-foot arete, go up the crack system to right of chains for Blood, Sweat and Steers and finishes up on the 30-foot overhanging head wall 8 feet to the right of the climb Brangus Muffins. Start the head wall in the small dihedral. You can see the layback flake at the top that you go up. The head wall at the top is really good! (5.10+). There is good protection all the way up so don't use any bad placements. As with all trad climbs here you have to watch for loose rock.

Location

This route starts up the arete 12 ft to the right of Sweat, Blood, & Steers and to the left of Try Trad. Goes up east side of the arete, tops out on arete at about 35 ft then up or by the crack system to overhanging headwall. To get down I then lean over edge and clip in to chains of Brangus Muffins and rappel down.

Protection

Trad gear with #3 Camalot or similar size cam. There is a tree and/or a big boulder to put webbing around (25 ft of webbing for boulder) and a good #3 camolot placement for belaying at top.