Holy Grail

Absolutely and unquestionably classic! ...That is after the junky first "pitch" of course.

The route can be done in two pitches, or better yet, as one long one. If doing it in one stretch, back clean your first two bolts on the approach pitch, with your belayer 30' down and right of the start of the climb.

P1. (5.6) Traverse some choss past three bolts to an anchor below the beautiful, soaring headwall. 40'

P2. (5.13a) Climb past, and back-clean a bolt off right to reach your true first bolt off left. The crux comes at the fourth bolt with hard sidepulls, then keep cranking through excellent crimps on your way to several large holes, and one hole/cave large enough you can crawl in to cop a rest before the finish.

The wall stays in the shade until 11am

Immediately on your right after you scramble up to the belay ledge for the Double Overhangs

21 bolts, but only 19 draws needed with your back cleaning on P1.