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Peak Mountain 3

South Face

FA Trevor Bowman and Mark Hofmeister 3/5/18
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun edges and pockets on decent Schnebly lead to a traverse left (extend slings on bolts 2 and 3 to mitigate rope drag) to a slightly spooky, but solid pillar. Pull a small roof ( a bit softer here) on jugs and laybacking into a crack in a right-facing dihedral which quickly widens and ends on a small ledge. Grapple up a clean OW in a corner through the limestone band to a second ledge. Surmount (I belly-flopped) a toadstool and reach over to clip a bolt protecting the final tricky moves to the anchor and summit above.

The anchor was positioned on the face directly beneath the summit proper for rock quality. It is easiest and most comfortable to have leader summit, and then lower off to TR the second, who can then stay clipped through the anchor to summit, before cleaning the anchor and lowering or rapping.  

A fun and quick mini-tower tick for those who love summits. The climbing cleaned up to be surprisingly worthwhile, given the somewhat dubious appearance of the features. This one is pretty mellow for the grade ( I won't argue if it gets downgraded, but try to avoid sandbagging before a consensus is out), and mostly bolted, making it pretty user-friendly for Sandona.

Location

Look for bolts on the south face. The first one is 15' or so off the ground. 

Protection

6 bolts, (1X) Red C3 (optional placement between bolts at roof), (1X) #4, #5 C4 Camalot, slings, draws.


Routes in Scorpion Spire


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    South Face
    5.10-
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