North Face

Despite some loose rock, lichen and dirt, this is a fun way to tag a very cool summit. There is some fun crack climbing on the route and incredible views throughout. The route takes a path-of-least-resistance approach up the north face of the peak. This describes the line we took but there is tons of room for variations and a lot more face.

P1. (5.5R) Climb the mostly unprotected slab (probably dirty from snowmelt) up and left toward some large boulders where a belay can be set up. There is only really a place to get in maybe two pieces of gear in the pitch. Easy, but serious climbing.

P2. (5.6) Head up and left toward some cracks that lead to a large ledge with pine trees on it.

P3. (5.7) On the left side of the ledge head up a fun dihedral with a good crack to another ledge. Traverse left on this ledge and set up a belay at a small pine tree.

P4. (5.8) Head up another dihedral with another good crack (crux). As you exit the crack, step left on the ledge and work up discontinuous cracks toward a large flake. Pull up the flake and set up a belay.

P5. (5.6-7 PG-13) Work up and right along a ramp feature with cracks toward another pine tree. Pass around the pine tree and use a large flake feature for a hand traverse, continuing right. Work your way up and right through the worst rock and loosest terrain on the route, find some blocks to belay from.

P6. (5.6) Move left from the belay using discontinuous cracks, then up through a mossy section to a nice 2 inch crack that then turns into a leftward trending 3" crack. Exit the crack and pull up and over to the left to finish the route, ending up on a ridge just below the summit.

Continue up the ridge to tag the summit.

Descent: descend the 3rd/4th class north ridge, stopping at the saddle/notch to retrieve your rappel anchor.

As you approach via the north ridge look for the very obvious large, white slab at the base of the face. The route starts here

Standard alpine rack. Plenty of runners.