Dark Arts

Dark Arts is an endearing mid range .11 that ascends the heart of the black, falls section of the cliff. Start out climbing up large ledges to gain the crack system. Work up thin crack with large face holds. Pass a lone bolt, then continue working up large system. Once you reach the large tan block, mantle up and the harder climbing begins.Do a hard stem move to access holds up and left of finger crack. Keep working up the near perfect stembox past cool face holds and good tips crack to the roof. At the roof, move right and place a #2 Yellow TCU. Move straight up to large jug rail, and continue pulling jugs to a final left hand finger lock. The anchors are below a small roof with white splotches on the underside.

You can now add a bit of climbing to a higher anchor courtesy of Ben Z-H and David Bloom. Doesn’t affect the grade but adds a little pump.

Classic climbing that gets better the more you get to know it, and it's the most moderate route in the black section of the cliff.

Double set from #00 to #1. Triples #00- .4 on the onsight might prove advantageous. Small and medium wires are helpful. 2 bolt anchor with steel Draco biners.