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Peak Mountain 3

Heart of Gold

FA Jeff Scheuerell, Lynne & Jerry Anderson 10/2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 - Either climb directly up the face to the left facing crack/arête or use the wide flake on the left to get off the ground and then traverse right. Using the crack in the corner for pro, head for the small roof above. Bouldery moves surmount the roof and lead past a second bolt. From here, head up easy knobs past the left side of the larger roof above. Finishes on a good ledge with bolts.

P2 - Curve left (easier climbing and better pro) before aiming for the obvious semi-circular hole in the roof directly above the belay. Face climbing leads to the hole and a bolt just beyond it. Head for the top on easier ground.

Descent

Head left and find the chain anchors for Control Your Pipe. From here, three single rope raps (watch your rope - lots of features to try and eat them) lead back to the base. Otherwise, continue for a short pitch up the face or take the gully on the left side wit a fixed rope. From the summit, rap the Great Depression.

Location

Two-thirds of the way up the Alley Wall, just before a large right facing flake. Looking up, you will see a small roof with bolts before and after it.

Protection

Gear to 4" (emphasis on small), knob slings


Routes in Alley Wall