- Edit (TBD)
Description
The line ascends the steep splitter on the northeast end of the formation. The crack starts off the ground and runs pretty much to the summit cap rock. However, in the first 20' there are some hollow blocks to contend with, the rock is very soft, and the crack is choked with mud. Start with the only less-than-hand sized placement on the route, and work through some broken handcrack to a bolt adjacent to a large hollow block. These first few placements must be excavated out, bring a nut tool and maybe a hammer to clear mud and debris out of the crack. Test the placements well, as it's somewhat difficult to determine if you're contacting rock, or just camming a mud veneer.
From the bolt, you should be able to highstep past the "mud hole" alcove, and reach the much more solid and cleaner splitter crack. The crack starts as #3 BD, and widens progressively to a long stretch of #6 BD for the last 20' or so. The rock improves throughout, and the crack gets cleaner as you ascend.
From the top of the splitter, clip a bolt and transfer left onto blocky ledges. A few loose, but moderate free moves lead to the summit. The summit anchor is in good stone above the west (opposite) face. You can easily fix jugging and cleaning the route, and then rap off the west face.
After the "entrance fee" of soft, muddy crack, this is a decent clean aid route that is steep (vert-gently overhung) on decent sandstone for the Grand Staircase. I could see this going free after a significant cleaning of the lower section.
Location
The splitter wide crack on the northeast corner of the tower.
Protection
2 bolts
In BD C4 sizes:
(1X) .75
(2X) 2, 3, 4
(1X) old 4
(2X) 5
(3-4X) old 5 or 6
The number of #6 Camalots will vary based on your comfort level with bumping in soft stone. If you can get your hands on an old #4 and #5 Camalot, they will prove helpful!
Bring tat for the anchor, which is two 1/2" bolts in good stone with slings and a quicklink.
Routes in Altar Boy Tower
- 1Spare the Rod...5.8Trad · Aid