Sweet Petite

With apologies to Harald and Diane, this fully bolted route turned out to be an excellent addition to the Mill Creek Crag. Start at the base of an incipient seam on porcelain white, bullet hard, granite. Climbing on this gently overhanging wall is continuous and interesting throughout. Difficulties ease back to 5.11 after the fourth clip, but a hard move lurks right at the anchor. The crux climbing is in the first four clips, and two options exist. One can chase the seam directly (hard) or power out right to a right-facing dihedral (better and a couple of letter grades easier). I thought that the climbing on Sweet Petite was superb, a real kick to solve, and well worth the effort.

NB: We jumped on SP at the end of June on a very hot day, and the start felt much harder than when we climbed it earlier in the year. Clearly, the good friction obtained in cooler weather makes a big difference on this fine grained granite.

This route is 100 feet right of the

Roof Rack

. There is a newly cairned trail immediately across from the pullout used to access the Mill Creek Crag.

Nine draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.