- Edit (TBD)
Description
2021 Edit: This route is the squeeze chimney directly beneath the Quarry Proper. It's actually pretty good as far as chimneys go- and classic Unaweep. Some incredibly imaginative beta at the crux. One piece of advice, go right hip in and there is some miraculous gear and holds. The chimney then shifts to OW and once things get desperate, consider your blindspot ;)
Above the OW, you can stay in gully and climb into the quarry proper, ultimately climbing up either
Weinerschtitzel
,
Decoco Crack
, or Hans Landa
. My preference: move right on sporty 5.10- face to the anchors of
Kira, get a job!
and link into that route for a mega 210' pitch of 5.10+
Just be aware the you would be in the danger zone if gumbies in the Quarry are kicking down loose rock, so let other parties know if you plan to climb under them.
Location
It's possible to approach this route from the bottom, but arguably much more convenient to fix a line from anchors at the Quarry Proper, and tr solo this as a first pitch to Weinerschtitzel, Decoco Crack, Hans Linda, or Kira Get a Job.
Protection
The chimney sections protects well with small-to-medium gear, but bring whatever wide gear you can get your hands on. Singles up to a 6 would be fine.