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Peak Mountain 3

Sun & Steel

FA PC Crew 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an exciting route on good rock with a cool position.

Sunlight, falling on your steel,

Death in life is your ideal,

Life is like a wheel - rolling on and on!

Sun & Steel, Iron Maiden

Pitch 1: Start just left of the obvious crack of Where Vultures Dare below an obvious bolt line w/yellow hangers and just right of a large roof 30’ up. Pull a devious crux and climb past 7 bolts (pumpy) until a thin crack comes into play. Follow the crack to a 3 bolt anchor on a marginal stance. 5.10c, 100’.

Pitch 2: Climb to the left off the anchor and follow bolts on a nicely exposed arête to a ledge (The Vultures Nest) with a 3 bolt belay. 5.9, 100’.

Pitch 3: Climb up the steep, wide crack to the left of the anchor. Make an exposed move out of the crack to the left below a roof. Pull past the roof on its left side and follow bolts and gear placements up a steep face. Belay on a blocky ledge from a 2 bolt anchor. An intimidating pitch. 5.10d, 100’.

Pitch 3 Variation:

Beer Mule

.

Pitch 4: Begin 10’ left of the anchor at a bolt and climb up passing more bolts on a steep face heading for the right side of a large roof. Pass the roof and perform several insecure layback/sidepull moves up to a ledge . Belay from 2 bolts. 5.11a/b, 90’.

Location

This route is located on the right side of the

Iron Hayden Wall

, just left of an obvious crack system (

Where Vultures Dare

). Look for a line of yellow bolt hangers.

Protection

Single rack to a #3 Camalot, many bolts.

60 Meter Rope.

Helmet.