Attack of the Clowns

This line follows the open book the first pitch of Clown Syndrome splits. Climb that pitch to the tree (5.6-7), then continue directly up steep mossy crack (5.9+). Skillful movement, moss, limited smearing, and somewhat tricky pro come into play. Crux is tiny roof on right partway up. Second crux is just before it eases up and is less steep.

One can split it into two pitches by belaying the second to the small oak tree anchor. This allows for better communication and doesn't reduce safety.

An excellent line that will present good San Gabriel challenges, such as loose rock, dirt, plants, and thoughtful protection which may prove marginal. A fun climb that requires good balance, good technical skills, and a little fire in your gut.

I had first tried this dihedral when Chris and I climbed Clown Syndrome. I only got up to before the first crux on the first attempt because I wasn't sure I could do it. It was dirty, had lots of miss and lichen, and was pretty steep. Protection was alright by local standards. Felt it was 5.8 up to this spot.

Came back with Justin P. and finished the line. The climbing is thoughtful and requires good balance. I remember a first and a second crux. The first felt about 5.9 going up and over the tiny roof. The second was around where the line moved left over a bulge onto lower angle terrain.

The anchor is honestly a pain in the ass to set up. I had a large sling or two around features, with a small cam and an inverted redirected #3 C4. Dare I say I wouldn't mind placing two camouflaged bolts for a belay/rappel station nearby, something respectful and purposeful in placement.

That's my memory, at least.

Start up first pitch of Clown Syndrome, and continue up inside of dihedral to top.

Anchor is terrible and complex. Use great caution. Two cordelettes would probably find their way into your anchor.

Small cams to #3 C4, I carry 8-10 small cams to .5".

Small offset nuts