Bad Ju-Ju Roof

To approach this route, drive east on the Cathedral Spires dirt road past the Pinnacle. Pull off at the gate closing an old dirt road (on the left side of the road, park on the right), looking up hill you'll see some obviously quarried rock.

From here walk up and gradually left keeping your eyes open for every huge roof you pass. It's about a 25 minute walk, depending how lost you get. It's easy to miss because of the offset of the roof. The right side of the roof is a foot or so lower than the left. It's easy to glance at the roof and think there isn't a crack if viewed from the east of the route.

The route starts with mildly spicy (or I'm a wimp) slab climbing past a bolt. Then you get 30 feet of sweet hands that gradually get wider. It's neat, with the offset it's like climbing a horizontal dihedral, even cooler, at times you can't see the crack you are jamming. It's as rad a roof I've ever seen. At the lip it gets stackable and is the crux. Due to the clean sharp break of the crack it can be laybacked, it's easier to to pull inverted Leavittation moves if you know that style. Above the lip, go to the 2 bolt anchor. It's wide, bro's would be useful, but it's 5.8 here.

I imagine a walk is possible as there are no rap rings. I don't know though. My partner was unable to climb this so I down-aided to the bolt on the slab and rapped off a link.

This is a must do route, officially it's 5.12a, but it's as easy as 11c if you are tuned on this style.

Note: as of May 24, 2013, this route and its crag are closed for a spot closure for raptor nesting. The trail leading up to it is closed as well.

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Hand size pieces up to #5 Friend. A #6 could be used past the lip, but if you are strong enough to pull the lip, you probably don't care.