- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1: Climb the slab leading to a good ledge at the base of obvious overhanging corner. Belay from 1 good bolt and a big cam. 5.6, 120ft.
Pitch 2: Climb the steep corner/dihedral above. At the top of the corner follow a short bolt ladder past a small tree. Climb past a couple more bolts to reach the anchor, which is 2 good bolts and an okay stance. A2+, 130ft.
Pitch 3: Face climb up and right, passing a huge detached block. Head for the obvious crack above. Follow this crack to a short left ward traverse leading to a bolt ladder on a steep section. At the top of the bolt ladder a couple more moves guard the anchor. The anchor has 1 very good bolt, bring a couple small cams(black alien) and/or a baby angle. There is a very good but sloping and shit covered ledge here. 5.9R, A2, 130ft.
Pitch 4: The Swift corner. Follow the splitter crack(under a roof) left and turn the corner. Continue up the crack until you reach a bolt. Continue up a very long section of bolts and hooking, with a few free moves here and there, on good rock. The belay is hanging and has 1 very good bolt and 1 okay bolt. 5.9, C2, 170ft.
Pitch 5: Start free climbing off the belay. Clip 1 good bolt then traverse right on the obvious foot rail. You are heading for a bolt just over a small roof. Step up high on this bolt to reach a bathook in the varnish above. Step up high on the bathook and mantle onto a big ledge. Go up and left on the ledge, being careful of loose rock. Belay at 2 very good but spaced bolts. This is Pabst Blue Ribbon ledge and would make a good place to bivy. 5.10R, C2, 100ft.
Pitch 6: Free climb up and traverse right then back left. You are aiming for the first bolt of a bolt ladder up an incredibly steep wall. Climb the bolt ladder with the occasional free move. At it's top traverse right on a small ledge to reach the belay at 2 good bolts. 5.9, C1. 130ft.
Pitch 7: Free climb off the belay by traversing right then straight up to a tree on a sloping ledge. Continue up the headwall above climbing on hooks between bolts. Belay at a good ledge from 2 good bolts. 5.8, C2. 140ft.
Pitch 8: Free climb up off the belay. About 20ft up traverse right on a small ledge. Face climb up aiming for the obvious right facing Dihedral. Pull over the top and tie off to a couple of trees. 5.9, 170ft.
Location
Good beta photo's in the guidebook by Jerry Handren will help you locate the route. But it's really easy to find with or without them. The beta photo(in the guidebook) for this route is accurate on the first few pitchs, but is totally off for the last 3 or 4.
Protection
Nut's: 1-2sets HB offsets, 1.5 sets regular. Cams: 2 each from Black Alien to #3 camalot. 1 #4 camalot. Pitons: 3-4 KB's, 4-5 LA's, 3 Baby angles. Hooks: 2 cliffhangers, 1 talon or bathook.