Trail of Tears

Exposed and well-protected on perfect stone, this killer route takes a prime line up the Electric Eagle.

Pitch 1 (5.12): This pitch is a shared first pitch with "Oh, Maggie!" Climb a technical face and get established under a roof (crux). Pull the roof on big holds and climb easier terrain on the only sub-perfect rock on the route to a decent belay stance at bolts.

Pitch 2 (5.11): A great pitch! Follow bolts off the belay more or less straight up, then trend gently left towards the large roof above you. Pull the roof using agiant chickenhead (Air Jordan opportunity) and then trend right following more bolts to a tough couple moves (crux) getting to the belay. Hanging belay at bolts.

Pitch 3 (5.13): The Biz. The hard climbing begins right off the belay and continues through the first four bolts. Charge into the black streak on Tuolumne-like knob climbing.  Find your path through the blackened knobs using delicacy, precision, and power to a mega jug after the fourth bolt. From here, take a pretty hard left and follow more bolts up and left on easy 5.11 terrain. Belay at a decent stance on bolts.

Pitch 4 (5.11): A long pitch to the top on knobs and then amazing runnels. Climb up off the belay past more bolts trending slightly left, but more up. Awesome knob climbing! If climbing with a 70M rope, climb past an anchor and then up into the crazy runnel features. After the anchor the climbing eases significantly. The hardest part is choosing which radical feature to grab as you make your way up. This pitch is run out, but you won't notice because the climbing is so damn cool. Ultimately, reach the top of the wall and belay at bolts on a big ol' ledge at the cliff's edge.

The route shares the starting pitch with Oh, Maggie! Rappelling in from the top of the Electric Eagle with a 70m rope was our preferred way to get to these routes during our time out there. Can also be accessed by hiking down.

All bolted. Bring about 12-14 quickdraws.