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Peak Mountain 3

K-9 Shanghai

FA Elmo Mecsko/Reed Fee - August 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

PITCH 1: 5.10c - 100 feet of fun, steep crack that keeps getting harder as you move upward. The slightly overhanging crux leads to bolted anchors.

PITCH 2: 5.12a - 60 feet of steep to very overhanging finger/hand crack. Fun and Dynamic movement thru the roof.

PITCH 3: 5.10a - Move to the right, climb the steep arete clipping bolts and a few gear placements. Finish thru an overhang to the left to a big ledge with bolted anchors.

To descend, rappel with a single rope to the top of the 2nd Pitch, from here a 2 rope rappel will get you to the ground (Because of the large overhang of the roof, it is recommended doing the 2nd rappel to the ground with 2 ropes, as it can be difficult to access the anchors at the top of Pitch 1 when you are hanging 20 feet away from the wall!)

Location

Route starts directly below the huge roof and climbs the thin crack straight towards the roof.

Protection

Bring a large rack with very small cams, doubles on small and medium cams, and a 3.5 cam to protect the crux of the route. A few lead bolts on the last pitch. All anchors are bolted.


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