- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route starts and follows the obvious dihedrals that split the southeast face of Captain Winter's Spire. It can be done with a 70 meter rope, a double rack of cams up to 2.5 inch and a few extra runners. There are no bolts in this rock!
Start the 1st pitch in a left-facing dihedral 30 meters until it breaks right into a short chimney, belay at the top of the short chimney. You'll belay from a crack next to a large tree.
Pitch 2 will start in a crack left of the tree that you're belaying next to. You should climb up to and past another large tree, belay on a ledge above the tree. If the tree no longer exists, then look for a large offwidth crack 30 meters directly above you. Climb up to the start of the offwidth, then traverse right about 6 feet to the next crack. Follow it to a ledge.
Pitch 3 follows the obvious 2 inch crack straight up into the right side of the main gully. The main gully is a left-facing dihedral with some oak brush in the bottom. Follow the right side of the gully to avoid rockfall. Belay pitch 4 from a overhang in the gully to protect the belayer from rockfall.
On the fourth pitch, stay on the right side of the gully to avoid loose rocks in the bottom of the gully. About 30 meters up the fourth pitch, there is a overhang. Climb to it, and traverse left under it to a nice ledge. There's loose rock under the overhang. The route will follow a right-facing dihedral to the top from there.
Rappel 30 meters off of the top to the northwest.
Location
The route starts in a dihedral directly under the southeast-facing gully.
Protection
A 70 meter rope, a double rack of cams up to 2.5 inch, and extra runners.
Routes in Captain Winter's Spire
- 1The Highway 96 Mystery Spot5.7Trad