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Peak Mountain 3

Better Dead Than Bored

FA Hughes, Childs, Rock, 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: head up the amazing finger crack for 30-40 feet using fingerlocks, pod jams, and face features. Blow through the small, left-leaning corner until you reach a ledge at the base of the huge, right-leaning corner system with a roof. Belay here, 5.10d.

Pitch 2: stem, jam, and work your way up the corner system, traversing right on the slab under the roof. From a ledge, continue up the corner system until you are atop a large boulder/flake. Head left on the slab ridge to the summit. Belay using the bolted anchor. 5.8ish

Descent: rappel from summit with two 60m ropes, straight down the main face between blastoff and the corner system. You could leave a rope at base, then tag it up for second once your first is down.

Location

It is on the right side of the wall, down a bit from

Blastoff

and next to a left-facing corner.

Protection

A standard rack to a #4.


Routes in Falcon Buttress


  1. 2
    Better Dead Than Bored
    5.10d
    Trad