Daggermouth

Daggermouth is a well-protected 16 foot long roof crack at 12,800 feet.

Although it is a P3 variation to

Sheep of Faith

, toprope access is easy from the “top” of the Casual Delight Buttress.

P1-2:

5.10+, 70 meters

Climb the first two pitches of

Sheep of Faith

.

P3:

5.12 PG, 20m

Navigate to the base of the roof making sure to extend your pieces when possible. The first two pieces in the roof (yellow C3 and 0.4) are bomber but tricky and strenuous to place. So temporarily place a #3 while you work them in. The crux is transitioning from face climbing the right lip of the crack to getting your feet up and straight in jamming. This is well protected by a blind #1. After getting fully established in the roof, cruise hand jams to the lip. Pull the lip, and belay at a single bolt and a finger crack at a stance. There is another bolt lower at the lip of the roof that you will likely be unable to clip or even notice while leading. This is because the bolt is for redirecting the follower’s rope or for toproping. Without it, the rope will get sucked into the crack and bring your cams along with it.

After this, there is some 5.0 to the top.

It is in the center of Casual Delight Buttress.

Singles #0.75-#4

Doubles #0.2-0.5

Alpine draws

Nuts

45m rope