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Peak Mountain 3

Lure of Lucre

FA Unknown (bolted and led by Floyd Hayes, November 2007)
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Relatively clean, long and sustained, this is the best climb at the crag. Surmount a short overhang just right of the overhanging "bell," mantel onto a small pillar, then climb thin face to a double-bolt anchor. The climb is hardest and most sustained if you climb straight up through the bolts, easier if you move left. Above the third bolt either: (1) climb straight up above the last bolt, which is a bit runout (final move is 5.10a); (2) place a small nut or cam in a groove to protect the final move; or (3) move left and clip the last bolt on Once Upon a Climb for an easier 5.6 finish.

Location

Left of the obvious large hand crack (Old Time Revival). Starts just right of the overhanging "bell" where a bolt is placed just left of a short vertical crack.

Protection

Three or four bolts plus optional nut or cam.


1000 km
1000 mi