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Peak Mountain 3

Fresno Flats

FA unknown - solo/ X rated prior to 1988 - Retrobolted by Mike Arechiga, Brad Watson& Michel Forecroy 1995
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Description

Bolted slab to the right of Guides in a Snowbank.

Originally a R/X route that was rebolted in the mid 1990s by Mike Arechiga et. al. making it a more friendly and safer, beginner lead.

Hardest move is right off the deck. The rest is 5.easy

3 pitches of mellow slab bring you to a headwall and a big ledge. Here you have several options to finish:

  1. Exit to the right (4th class) belay from the top

  2. Follow the arching crack up the headwall, clipping 2 bolts (5.8)

  3. Move over to the anchor on Guides in a Snowbank. Climb the steep bolted headwall (5.9/5.10-)

  4. Move even further over on the ledge, and climb the unnamed 5.8/5.9 OW crack to the summit.

Location

When heading down the approach trail, you will come across a giant dihedral crack system with a slab beside it. The obvious crack is Watership down, the first bolted line to the right is Guides in a Snowbank, the next one is Fresno Flats.

Protection

6-8 Quick draws. Optional gear depending on choice of finish. I find its always handy to carry a single set of cams when climbing at Fresno Dome.