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Locksmith Dihedral
Description
The
Locksmith Dihedral
follows the steep, tasty-looking corner up the middle of the buttress.
The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block. An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.
The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. There are no anchors here...you'll need to walk West to the Gatekeeper Crack and rap that route. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.
There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the
Gatekeeper Crack
.
Location
See photo
Protection
One #0 TCU
Three #1 TCU
Four #2 TCU
Three #3 TCU
Two #.75 Camalot
Three #1 Camalot
Three #2 Camalot
Three #3 Camalot
Two #4 Camalot
One #4.5 Camalot
One #5 Camalot
Nuts
60m ropes