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Peak Mountain 3

Locksmith Dihedral

FA Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - April 2005. FFA Mike Anderson in 2007
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The

Locksmith Dihedral

follows the steep, tasty-looking corner up the middle of the buttress.

The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block. An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.

The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. There are no anchors here...you'll need to walk West to the Gatekeeper Crack and rap that route. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.

There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the

Gatekeeper Crack

.

Location

See photo

Protection

One #0 TCU

Three #1 TCU

Four #2 TCU

Three #3 TCU

Two #.75 Camalot

Three #1 Camalot

Three #2 Camalot

Three #3 Camalot

Two #4 Camalot

One #4.5 Camalot

One #5 Camalot

Nuts

60m ropes


Routes in Gatekeeper Wall


  1. 1
    Locksmith Dihedral
    5.11
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