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Peak Mountain 3

Chimeras

FA Equipped: Jayson Nissen. F.F.A. JD Merritt, 11/1/2019.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Aesthetic and sometimes holdless corner trickery.Stick clip the 2nd bolt. Pull a fun but inconsequential boulder problem out of the hueco, through the low roof, and into the ever-steepening scoop. Now the normal rock climbing is over. Prepare for stemming, bridging, and palming and encounter the baffling crux at the 5th bolt. Take advantage of your flexibility and three-dimensionality to overcome the austere holdlessness. You are now rewarded with holds, starting with a pair of pitiful slopers. The hardest moves follow, clearing the bulge with the feet. This whole crux section is baffling to read, hard to grade, and highly 'morpho' (as euros and boulderers are known to say).But it continues... summon calm. The outro holds several devious sections, each unlocked with some oddly specific wonky houdini trick. Any minutely shaky leg will be promptly met with an ejection from the upper crux. I managed to punt here once. Be sure not to drink too much coffee...Thanks to Jayson for all the great bolting at the garden, and for generously sharing these open projects!

Location

The overhanging dihedral with black, white, and gold streaks. Starts above two large blocks on the ledge 20 ft up. Identified by a two foot wide Hueco at the start.

Easiest approach scramble is the ramp on the left. Stick clip the second bolt from the ledge. Optional belay bolt down and right, easy to miss. You can belay from the ground or from the ledge.

Originally listed in the DB as "Yggdrasil - Open Project"

Protection

8 bolts to 2 ring anchor.