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Peak Mountain 3

Annie's Lament

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Description

Begin on the distinct layback crack splitting the low angle eastern face of the cliff. Traverse left to avoid the roof and belay at a low angle ledge.

Pitch 2: Continue left climbing over some blobby face. Step across the rock moat. Run it out up the easy slab and belay anywhere convenient.

Variation: Deviating to the right at the small roof puts you in a finger to hand crack which is a blast, but probably goes slightly harder than 5.6. This route can easily be done in one pitch with a 70m rope and possibly a 60m rope. Just mind rope drag low down.

Location

Walk around to the east shoulder slabs and begin on the distinct layback crack splitting the low angle face. Walk off by scrambling down the gully on the north western side of the crag. Can also rappel to the huge ledge and walk off climbers right from there.

Protection

Pitch 1: Gear to 4 inches...Tri-Cams, TCU's, and long runners useful. Two bolts on the left side above the roof.

Pitch 2: Can sling horns for protection, but 5.0 climbing.

Can link both pitches into one long pitch.

Can use large tree at top for anchor or two bolts with rap rings to the right of the tree on the face.