We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Massive Major Multi-Pitch

FA unkown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A nice little way to link a few pitches below Devil's Doorway.

Pitch 1: Kenosis (5.4) or Dippy Diagonal (5.7). If you take Dippy; you can stem left near the top and finish on the upper-section of Kenosis to build an anchor on the ledge above Kenosis (which is far more convenient for the next pitch than topping-out on Dippy proper). The large pine at the top of Kenosis serves as an excellent belay anchor, but there is an alternate (and probably more convenient for the next pitch) anchor that can be built in a horizontal on the right wall before crossing the gully to the next pitch.

Pitch 2: Goodbye Youth (5.5) or Mindless Dribble (5.8). Cross the gully from the belay ledge and choose the next pitch. An aesthetic way to do pitch two is start up Mindless Dribble and then traverse into Goodbye Youth with your hands at the upper-horizontal. This traverse can be reasonably protected (for the second as well) with a BD X4 #0.1.

Pitch 3: Angel's Crack (5.6) or Jolly Roger (5.8). Move the belay 10-15 meters West to the base of the tower and climb either route to a great finish with excellent views of Devil's Doorway.

Of course many variations are possible beyond those listed here, but these pitches make for a nice outing that flows relatively well.

Location

Pitches 1&2: Lower Major Mass Pitch 3: Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower

Protection

Standard rack, small cams (X4's #0.1-#0.4) helpful.