The Snave Direct

This route was first described as “Alpine Rock” at “Mount Evans, North Face”

mountainproject.com/v/the-s…

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From Summit Lake Bowl, climb south mostly on steep snow, exactly to the base of the main summit of Mount Evans. From here, The Snave takes long traverse left just below lower cliff band. We climbed some sort of small ramp/steps/ledges just below the upper part of The Snave Couloir (first crux WI2-4, M1-5 unless a lot of snow). There is a possible belay above at the old bolt, on left side of the couloir. After crossing main couloir, climb a brilliant, narrow band of snow and ice falling straight from summit block. This runnel began more vertical, more like a narrow chimney. Above a small overhang (2nd crux - 4th, M2), climb 50' of mostly snow to the notch few feet left and below the big, detached summit block.

The lower cliff band (first pitch/crux) was climbed mostly on snow and is listed at 2009/06/23 by Scott Borger + Dennis ? + Jeff Fox.

TR

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This is the steep wall just below main summit.

Solid rock. Bring a few stoppers and cams to maximum of 3". Also, it is useful to have 1-2 short screws.