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Peak Mountain 3

Ocaso

FA MT
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Description

This is an area classic! Ocaso climbs out of a pit via a tricky compression sequence before gaining a juggy arete and riding it to the heavens. The grade is somewhat ambiguous, but it's kinda reachy while also being kinda scrunchy. There's certainly a few different ways to climb it, but start low, bear-hugging with your left hand on the arete and your right hand on an undercling. It's both balancy and powerful.

Climbing just the arete from a stand start makes for a fun V0 in itself. The 'PG-13' just acknowledges the potential for a weird fall at any point, due to the nature of the pit and the backscratcher boulder behind you. Falling from any point on the arete is ill-advised, but if you made it that far, you won't.

Location

Left of "

Ton of Brix

" and the TR flake on the main boulder, look for a tall, clean, orange face rising out of a pit. It is north-facing.

Protection

1-2 pads. A spotter or additional pile of foam does little to mitigate the awkward fall potential.