Pickle in the Sickle

This is really a variation on the second pitch of Uncle Fester.

P1 (5.6, G): do the first pitch of Gomez, which is a 10 foot scramble on chossy blocks to the (also choosy) right-leaning crack. At the end of the crack, head straight up the slab to the spacious ledge with a small tree right in front of an alcove. 90'

P2 (5.6, PG-13/R): This is the money (and sketchy) pitch. Instead of going left out of the alcove as you'd do for Uncle Fester, go right to gain the crack in the right facing corner. Follow this crack (jams, underclings) for ~20 ft until you're about ten feet below where the slab steepens and the crack peters out. You'll notice on your left the easiest spot where you climb left out of the corner and onto the slab. Once out of the corner, you have to make a mostly unprotected traverse left (~20 ft) to a sickle-shaped ledge in a hollow flake. You can better protect the traverse by following the crack a bit higher, placing a piece, down-climbing, and then going for the traverse. Once on the slab, you can also go high for some pro and down-climb. No way to deal with the hollow flake belay though, so don't fall starting the third pitch! ~80'

P3 (5.4 R): Choose your own adventure up the slab getting in two or three small pieces along the way (but most importantly get a piece in the horizontal 10' above the belay so you're not falling on the sketchy anchor). Ultimately, you wanna end up at the giant roof (Pugsley Boulder) on the right side of the top of the slab. 150'

NOTE:

I've said it, and I'll say it again: the second belay is REALLY sketchy gear. Know what you're getting into or don't climb.

Out of the guidebook: "100' uphill and right from the flat area at the lowest point on the slab, below some blocks, stacked 12' high, above which is a right-leaning crack, the only crack in this area (and difficult to see in heavy foliage). These blocks are at the height of the tree slope. The first pitch can be avoided by starting as for Pugsley."

Standard 'dacks rack up to 3". Make sure to bring big nuts (BD hex ≥9) for the hollow flake on the second belay.