Neglect

The direct finish/extension to Crankbugs.

Rest well after Crankbugs, straight above you are stacked cruxes, one after another to get to each bolt with mediocre shakes in between. Thankfully each crux is easier than the last, but once you’ve done all 3 you still have a techy, & airy stem sequence well above your last bolt. A hidden mono just below the anchor is the key to pulling through to the last clipping hold.A full 40m pitch straight up the wall. The OG extension (Patience) traverses straight left for two bolts above the Crankbugs anchor before continuing upwards thereafter. For this route, you’ll do those couple of opening moves off the anchor but continue upwards into neglected terrain that had old chopped bolts through the first crux & an incomplete finish. This is the line drawn in the Squeezing the Lemmon III topo.I believe Alex Kirkpatrick may have removed the original bolts (placed by Ray Ringle) and decided to bolt his own extension far left; what would later become ‘Patience’ first climbed by Jack Hereford (2017) After brushing the forest of lichen that once ran down the subtle seam that now yields more hard climbing, I replaced the first two bolts & finished equipping the route to the top of the wall.

Start as for Crankbugs, continue straight up after anchor Topo available here80m barely lowers (tie knot), if using 70m lower use 1st anchor to lower

16 bolts