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Peak Mountain 3

Divine Wind

FA Sharp and Carry, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Thin stemming on high quality granite.

This writeup only discusses the first pitch which is all most people are going to be interested in. The second pitch is said to be 11b and very serious. Anyone care to add a description of P2?

P1. Start at the left end of Blob Rock, below a prominent clean, right facing corner which starts about 30' above the ground. The corner is visible in the Blob Rock perspective photo, just right of the top of a pine tree in the foreground and left of a prominent slab/bald-spot. (From the Bolt Cola area, walk left a couple of hundred yards and scramble up some ledges to reach the start.)

Some moderate, better-than-it-looks climbing leads to the corner proper. Place a good upward directional to protect the small nuts that will follow. Stem upward placing good small stoppers and RPs. The crux is at the top of the corner and can be partially avoided by stepping left around the arrete which the old Erickson guidebook said made the pitch 10+.

There is a fixed anchor at the end of the pitch, but continuing on Bearcat is highly recommended.

P2. On the second pitch you have to do the hardest moves before you get gear in, so it is a potential ankle-breaker, certainly "R-rated". It is of similar difficulty to the first pitch, though the hard part is pretty brief. It is also possible to finish the route with the Wounded Knee roof.

Protection

Mainly small nuts with some fingers to hands cams for the bottom.