The Pirate

This route is a forgotten classic! Go do it!

P1 (5.10+) Climb up some tricky but fun terrain (5.10+) past three bolts and some gear to the beginning of the obvious crack system and a rest stance. Crank up the sweet crack, thin hands to hands, until you reach the belay stance below the chimney. Great rock and good pro. Maybe 90 feet.

P2 (5.10+) Launch into the surprisingly mellow chimney past three bolts to a short OW section. Above the OW the crack narrows to a sustained and steep hand/finger crack. Endless bomber jams and locks get you to another bolted anchor and a small ledge. Best pitch of the route! Great rock, good gear. About 120 feet.

P3 (5.10-) Head up the obvious ramp from the belay. Pull an awkward bulge higher up and climb to the belay/rap anchors. Another 20 feet up an easy chimney puts you on top. Okay rock, good pro. About 80 feet.

Camalots - singles - #4, #5, optional #6 Doubles .3 - #3 bring triples to sew it up

All belays are bolted. Descent - Rap 1 - 80 feet to top of 2nd pitch Rap 2 - 210 feet to the ground. Two 60m ropes will barely work.

Approach: 20-30 mins. Head up the tourist trail from the Cathedral Rocks Trail head. Middle Mesa and the route can be seen from most of the trail, especially above the slabs. Just before the final steep section below the saddle veer off to the left on the Mace approach trail and head to the base of Middle Mesa. The base of The Pirate is pretty obvious but look for two very short wide sections right off the ground and bolts up higher.