- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a spectacular, continuously overhanging pitch. It has no good rests and not one easy move. The rock is sharp and a bit crumbly in places, which is the only thing that keeps me from giving it 4 stars. It starts off with very steep, bouldery moves, then continues with less steep but more technical climbing up the arete. The climbing eases slightly once you reach the giant flake, but if you're like me, your arms are screaming by this point so things still feel quite hard. Lay-back for glory to the anchors!
Rock Climbing New Mexico gives the route a grade of "11d/12a," which is not an option on Mountain Project, so I just call it 11d.
Location
Currently the farthest left route at the Rough and Readies. Climbs the obvious arete with bouldery start, to an overhanging flake.
Protection
7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The first bolt is easy to clip, but a clip stick might be advisable for the second bolt.